Me holding a marshmallow kiss
If you follow me on Instagram, you probably noticed that last weekend felt sort of like the kick off to Christmas to us. Friday, St Nikolaus came to Germany (and to our house!) and left his chocolates, oranges, and presents. We missed Krampusnacht, a tradition around these parts where St. Nikolaus' terrifying companion, Krampus, parades through the street, demanding schnapps and threatening to beat you with stick and eat you. Did I mention Krampus looks like a devil crossed with the Where the Wild Things Are monster?!
In lieu of Krampusnacht, we went to a St. Nikolaus party hosted by a German friend of mine who I met waaaaaay back when I studied in France and who now lives near us. We laughed about how she hosted my 21st birthday party in France, and now here we were again together, the day after my 25th birthday. It was awesome to see her and for her to get to meet Fionn. She hasn't changed a bit!
The next day Fionn and I decorated our little tree for Christmas, and in keeping with the spirit, we headed over to Nurnberg to see the Christmas Market. It was probably a mistake to brave the Nurnberg Market on a Saturday, but we made the most of it by stuffing ourselves on Christmas market goodies.
First off was a piping hot drei im Weckla, a Nurnberger favorite of three mini white sausages in a bread roll, slathered with spicy German mustard (or sweet mustard, if you're feelin' Bavarian). And can I get a round of applause for this epic beard the sausage seller was rockin'?
Fionn and the drei im Weckla
The Nurnberg Christmas Market is HUGE and it's actually made up on different smaller markets. There's the Children's Market, the Sister City market, and then the Christkind Market, which is the main one. Naturally we dove right into the thick of it.
The crowds in the center of the market were crazy, so we sought refuge on the outskirts, where deliciousness awaited. My friends, I give you...the Kartoffelpuffer.
It's basically a potato latke, but you can choose if you want it with apple sauce, jam, or a herbed sour cream like spread called Quark. Fionn and I were so excited we ordered two. Ok, well actually I misunderstood and ordered us two, but since when is having too many Kartoffelpuffers a problem?!
The most delicious assembly line
After our potatoes, we stopped for a Dampfnudel, a sweet yeast bread that's served covered in vanilla sauce and cinnamon-sugar and poppy seeds. We were a bit disappointed because we were hoping for a Germknödel, which is the same thing except that it has a spicy plum jam filling. It was still pretty dang tasty, though we remain on the lookout for some plum jam deliciousness...
Next door was the Feuerzangenbowle stand. Have you heard of Gluhwein? Y'know, the German mulled wine? Well Feuerzangenbowle is regular mulled wine except they soak a sugar cone in rum, set it on fire and let it drip into the Gluhwein, then serve it to you until you're pink cheeked and merry like everyone else around the stand. It's delish, y'all.
The stand itself had this crazy red metallic wrapping paper decorating the inside which made it look like everything was on fire. We had fun watching the guy drip flaming sugar into the vat of gluhwein, but soon the crowd jostled us along.
From there Fionn and I stopped for a waffle and meandered around the stalls as the cold drove some of the crowds away.
Then, I deposited Fionn at a coffee shop and set off by myself to look for Christmas decorations. I can only ask so much of poor Fionn ;)
After shopping, eating, and drinking our way through the Christmas market, it was time to call it a day and we headed back home. What a great way to kick off Christmas!
Have you ever been to Nurnberg's Christmas Market? Do you want to go?