Friday, December 13, 2013

Eating Our Way through the Nurnberg Christmas Market

Me holding a marshmallow kiss

If you follow me on Instagram, you probably noticed that last weekend felt sort of like the kick off to Christmas to us. Friday, St Nikolaus came to Germany (and to our house!) and left his chocolates, oranges, and presents. We missed Krampusnacht, a tradition around these parts where St. Nikolaus' terrifying companion, Krampus, parades through the street, demanding schnapps and threatening to beat you with stick and eat you. Did I mention Krampus looks like a devil crossed with the Where the Wild Things Are monster?!

In lieu of Krampusnacht, we went to a St. Nikolaus party hosted by a German friend of mine who I met waaaaaay back when I studied in France and who now lives near us. We laughed about how she hosted my 21st birthday party in France, and now here we were again together, the day after my 25th birthday. It was awesome to see her and for her to get to meet Fionn. She hasn't changed a bit!

The next day Fionn and I decorated our little tree for Christmas, and in keeping with the spirit, we headed over to Nurnberg to see the Christmas Market. It was probably a mistake to brave the Nurnberg Market on a Saturday, but we made the most of it by stuffing ourselves on Christmas market goodies.

First off was a piping hot drei im Weckla, a Nurnberger favorite of three mini white sausages in a bread roll, slathered with spicy German mustard (or sweet mustard, if you're feelin' Bavarian). And can I get a round of applause for this epic beard the sausage seller was rockin'?

Fionn and the drei im Weckla

The Nurnberg Christmas Market is HUGE and it's actually made up on different smaller markets. There's the Children's Market, the Sister City market, and then the Christkind Market, which is the main one. Naturally we dove right into the thick of it.

The crowds in the center of the market were crazy, so we sought refuge on the outskirts, where deliciousness awaited. My friends, I give you...the Kartoffelpuffer.

It's basically a potato latke, but you can choose if you want it with apple sauce, jam, or a herbed sour cream like spread called Quark. Fionn and I were so excited we ordered two. Ok, well actually I misunderstood and ordered us two, but since when is having too many Kartoffelpuffers a problem?!

The most delicious assembly line

After our potatoes, we stopped for a Dampfnudel, a sweet yeast bread that's served covered in vanilla sauce and cinnamon-sugar and poppy seeds. We were a bit disappointed because we were hoping for a Germknödel, which is the same thing except that it has a spicy plum jam filling. It was still pretty dang tasty, though we remain on the lookout for some plum jam deliciousness...

Next door was the Feuerzangenbowle stand. Have you heard of Gluhwein? Y'know, the German mulled wine? Well Feuerzangenbowle is regular mulled wine except they soak a sugar cone in rum, set it on fire and let it drip into the Gluhwein, then serve it to you until you're pink cheeked and merry like everyone else around the stand. It's delish, y'all.

The stand itself had this crazy red metallic wrapping paper decorating the inside which made it look like everything was on fire. We had fun watching the guy drip flaming sugar into the vat of gluhwein, but soon the crowd jostled us along. 

From there Fionn and I stopped for a waffle and meandered around the stalls as the cold drove some of the crowds away.

Then, I deposited Fionn at a coffee shop and set off by myself to look for Christmas decorations. I can only ask so much of poor Fionn ;)

Prune people!

After shopping, eating, and drinking our way through the Christmas market, it was time to call it a day and we headed back home. What a great way to kick off Christmas!

Have you ever been to Nurnberg's Christmas Market? Do you want to go?


  1. Ohhhh you can keep the kiss in that thing, I want that marshmallo! Ohh and a few of those Christmas Decorations :)
    Also, do stop by and link up with us this week if you have a few mins.

  2. I have been to the Nürnberg Christmas Market last Sunday. It was soooo crowded which was too much for me. I have to say! I like the smaller Christmas Markets that are not that overloaded much, much more.
    We also got a sausage at the same sausage stand (I think it is there year round because I have seen the guy with the awesome beard a couple of times). If you are there again, you should try the Käsekrainer- a sausage with cheese- my absolute favorite!
    Enjoy the Christmas season!

  3. I'm headed there tomorrow. Thanks for the amazing preview! I'm on the hunt for that awesome little reindeer you bought. I NEED one!

    1. You can find the stall selling them just past the giant church (Lorenzkirche, I think!) just before you get to the heart of the Christmas market. You'll see lots of wreaths and forest animals made of wood and bark and such. I was there yesterday and she still had lots! :)

  4. I'm so jealous! I miss the marchés de Noel in France, but I've heard the German markets are the best. I'm hungry after reading your post. Everything looks delicious!

    1. The German ones have a different vibe than the French ones. I miss all the macarons and the Nativity figures from Provence that you find all over France's markets! :)

  5. Brandon ordered two (sets) kartofelpuffers by accident too. I knew it was going to happen, it says it comes with two haha he didn't listen. And how did I not see these prune people before? wtf?

    1. I secretly was happy since it's hard for me to share them ;) and I have no idea what is up with prune people, that seems like a recipe for bugs, right?

      Btw were you in rothenburg today? I totally saw a girl who looks like you but I didn't want to go up and be a creeper haha

    2. No, I haven't been to Rothenburg yet this year. It's funny because a lot of people think they see me. I think it's just the long dark hair.

  6. That market looks amazing! And I can always eat my way though a cultural event, especially the food in Germany.

  7. I love the Christmas markets! We've been to our local one in Trier twice already but the other night was so crowded you couldn't even get through sometimes! Our Dampfnudel had a filling with cherry and vanilla sauce and I wondered if they had different ones because my husband was surprised that it had filling. Anyway, looks gorgeous there! Hope to go someday. :-)

  8. All I want to do at Christmas Markets is eeeeeaaaat!!! Everything just smells amazing :)

  9. I will head there on saturday. Thanks for giving me very brief introduction for what I have to try there :) Anw, your face looks very happy :")